Azabu Juban is beloved by expatriates and Japanese alike. The district combines the best elements of a quiet neighbourhood with specialised stores without the crowds commonly associated with shopping spots such as Shibuya. Often referred to as 'the Juban', Spree-ers can source those quintessential gifts that should be purchased only in Japan: kimono accessories, handmade rice crackers, geta (Japanese flip-flops) and ceramics. Best of all, it is centrally located and has hundreds of good bars and restaurants. Roppongi Hills is within walking distance, where you can add chain stores and designer shopping to your itinerary. Just avoid Tuesdays, when many of the stores in Azabu Juban are closed.
Follow the main artery starting at Wendy's and on the left is Sunaga (pictured; 2-1-8 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3457 0323), a family-run kimono arts store established in 1888. Purses, tissue-paper cases and handkerchiefs made from brightly coloured Japanese cloth are stocked alongside tabi (Japanese socks), cotton robes (yukata), folding fans and exquisite fabric. Jimbei, traditional summer wear, is available in children's and adult sizes, as are cotton hanten (jackets) and samue (a loose-fitting summer ensemble).
A little further on is Iriyama (2-1-8 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3453 0561), a reasonably priced bottle shop. Enormous 1.8-litre bottles of sake range from 1,600 yen (HK$112) - it could double as paint-stripper - to one of Japan's finest tipples, Kubota Manju, at 13,860 yen.
Daikokuya (2-1-3 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3451 0844) is a Japanese shoe store that also sells bags, tapestries, umbrellas and cute souvenirs, such as miniature lacquered sandals. Geta and zori are designed to be worn with kimonos or more casually by men in summer. Some designs are lined with tatami and priced from 1,155 to 2,000 yen, a steal if you can manage to balance on the chunky wooden blocks.
Iwatan Tea Shop (2-3-3 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3451 1303) stocks a selection of healthy brews. One speciality is the seaweed and sun-dried salt-infused mineral soup with Japanese apricot. Delightful teapots in rich blues and ceramic tea cups are good buys, along with tea canisters
in original designs, including one inspired by the Louis Vuitton logo.
Follow your nose to Mamegen (1-8-12 Azabu Juban, tel: 0120 410 413), which is devoted to rice crackers, nuts and other munchies. Some of the items are made fresh on the premises, so watch the snack-maker deep-fry the irresistible crackers, then sample free.
Cross the road and head left to Gallery KAN KAN (2-5-9 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3408 4021) a regularly changing space devoted to globally sourced furniture, art and jewellery. Past collections have included hand-carved African stools and beaded necklaces. The store's exhibits are often featured in local art magazines.
If you want to buy knick-knacks but your budget does not stretch to Gallery KAN KAN, head to Authentique Azabu New York (SH Building, 1-11-16 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 6229 0929), which stocks Canadian beeswax candles, Japanese tableware and Balinese furniture.
Parallel to the main strip is Blue & White (2-9-2 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3451 0537), a store owned by Amy Katoh, author of Japan Country Living. As the store's name implies, everything on display is blue and white, the colours of traditional Japanese cotton fabrics. Spoons, rice paddles, jimbei, mugs and tiles all feature folksy motifs such as rabbits, dragonflies and fish.
For a trip down memory lane, head to Kaleidoscope Mukashi-kan (2-13-8 Azabu Juban, tel: 81 3 3453 4415), a purveyor of eponymous optical delights. There are some inexpensive versions on sale that may bring back childhood memories, but expect to re-mortgage your home to pay for older models. Whether you're a collector or not, this store is worth a visit to marvel at such a splendid invention.
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